The architect Tadao Ando has designed four chapels and churches in Japan. They are known as the Churches of the Wind, Water, Sea and, his signature work, Ibaraki Kasugaoka Church, better known as the Church of the Light.
The Church of the Light was built in 1989, in the town of Ibaraki, in Osaka prefecture about 25 kilometers outside of Osaka city. It is the main chapel of the Ibaraki Kasugaoka Church and a showcase of the self taught (he used to be a boxer) architect Ando’s trademark work.
Ando – unlike his Japanese contemporary Kengo Kuma who specialises in the use of wood – primarily uses reinforced concrete that is very smooth to the touch, with strictly geometric lines. He is renowned for building his structures in harmony with nature, letting in natural light and wind to redefine the space inside the concrete.
“Light is the origin of all being. Light gives, with each moment, new form to being and new interrelationships to things, and architecture condenses light to its most concise being. The creation of space in architecture is simply the condensation and purification of the power of light.” – Tadao Ando
The Church of the Light has a rectangular shape, cut through by an obliquely-angled freestanding wall which divides the space into two parts: the chapel itself and a small triangular entry hall. The narrow aisle slopes gently down towards the altar on the south end of the church.
Behind the altar, the wall has two large slotted openings that form the shape of a cross. Light seems to burn through wall into the otherwise very dark space, facing the churchgoers seated on wooden benches made from the wood that was used for the scaffolding during the construction of the church.
Ando had an ongoing disagreement with the congregation concerning the cross shaped slots. He wanted to let the wind in freely, but the congregation deemed it too cold and covered it with see through plastic windows.
There’s something very striking about Tadao Ando’s work. I love the smoothness of the concrete and can’t resist touching it whenever I visit one of his buildings. The absolute minimalism appeals, as does his use of light and dark. It is photogenic work, or in modern terms… ‘instagrammable’. Concrete is sexy, don’t @ me.
My favourite of his buildings that I have been able to visit is the Chichu Art Museum on the island of Naoshima. Its labyrinthal entrance leaves a lasting impression and the building is more interesting than most of the art inside. Although the Monets are a nice contrast. Unfortunately, photography is forbidden on the premises, you’re not even allowed to take a picture of the sea views from the museum café.
As for the Church of the Light, even as a non-believer, the sight of daylight burning a cross through the wall is something I won’t forget.
How to get to the Church of the Light
Unlike some of Ando’s other churches, The Church of the Light is fairly easy to get to and to visit, although you do have to book in advance.
You’ll have to sign up via their website weeks in advance and it is not open every day. Days of opening are decided one month in advance. Visiting hours are between 1.30pm and 4pm. Entrance is free, but church staff will ask you for a donation upon signing in. Nobody checked whether I had actually booked in advance or not.
Tadao Ando is a very famous and popular architect throughout Asia, he has designed many buildings in South-Korea and China. When I visited in November 2017, there were a lot of – mainly Asian – visitors. Everybody will be taking pictures. People will stand at the back, north end of the aisle first, but will eventually walk towards the south wall. Take your indoor pictures early if you want clean shots of the building.
Directions: From Osaka take the JR Tokaido-Sanyo Line to Ibaraki Station, a 14-minute ride. From there you can take a local bus. It is 12 minutes on the number 2 Kintetsu bus, the ride costs around ¥220. Get off at Kasugaoka Park Bus Stop (Kasugaokakouen) from which it is a 1 minute walk north-west towards the church. The bus driver will provide a map with walking directions upon request.
Or you can walk, as I did. It’s a little under one hour.
This link will lead you to the website of the Church of the Light
Other iconic buildings by Tadao Ando you can visit:
- 21_21 Design Sight, Tokyo
- Benesse Art Museum, Naoshima
- Chichu Art Museum, Naoshima
- Punta della Dogana, Venice
- Opening in 2020: Bourse du Commerce, Paris